Wednesday, March 20, 2013

Spinach and Artichoke Mac and Cheese with Bacon

I do not find mac and cheese boring.  Not at all.  I love cheese, and I love pasta, and I love the comforting, creamy, and ultimately benign flavor and texture profile of mac and cheese.  But some people might find it boring, bite after creamy bite.  If you happen to be one of these people, but you still enjoy cheese and pasta, this is the recipe for you.  I think the title essentially speaks for itself: Spinach and Artichoke Mac and Cheese with Bacon.  Despite the fact that it is loaded with spinach, I am not going to try to sell you on it being healthy.  It is most certainly not.  It is loaded with cheese, and peppered with bacon.  However, I will say that I think this recipe would be a great candidate for whole wheat pasta; however that still won’t make it healthy.  So, if you are counting calories, either stop that nonsense, or close your web browser.
This is a pretty basic mac and cheese recipe (roux-based béchamel sauce, melted cheese, pasta), but the flavor gets elevated by shallots and a little garlic, as well as some nutmeg, the meatiness of bacon, and the heft of the spinach and artichokes.  This recipe is very user friendly: it calls for frozen spinach and canned artichokes.  No blanching, chopping, and scrapping out furry chokes required.  I will say that you should not under any circumstances rush while you are draining the spinach.  Squeeze it, squeeze it, then squeeze it some more.  Nothing is worse than watery frozen spinach (is anyone else gagging, or is that just me?).  The cheese selection in this recipe is a perfectly balanced combination of Monterey jack and parmesan.  Jack is creamy and mild, and melts languidly into the sauce; the parmesan adds a lip-smacking savory quality.  And the best part is that they are used in equal amounts.  Parmesan cheese is a common addition to mac and cheese, but not usually in this quantity, which allows it to really assert its presence.  The other great thing about this recipe is that is it broiled, rather than baked.  Personally, I think baking macaroni and cheese is playing with fire.  First you slave over your cheese sauce, coming up with the perfect consistency, and then you let it mingle in a hot oven for 45 minutes, which completely changes the texture, often to a more grainy consistency, rather than its original unctuous luxuriousness.  So, my suggestion, is to generously top that sucker with shredded cheese, and throw it under the broil (observing with a hawk’s watchfulness so it doesn’t burn, and possibly rotating it every minute or so), which will allow for a golden, melted top, while maintaining the creamy, saucy interior.      
Spinach and Artichoke Mac and Cheese with Bacon (adapted from Taste and Tell):

Yields 6-8 servings

1 pound penne pasta
4-5 slices bacon, chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 shallots, diced
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3/4 cup chicken broth
3 cups milk
1 (10-ounce) package frozen chopped spinach, defrosted and drained thoroughly
1 (14-ounce) can artichoke hearts, chopped
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
¼ teaspoon hot chile flakes
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 1/2 cups shredded Monterey jack, divided
1 1/2 cups grated Parmesan, divided


-          Preheat the broiler. Coat 9x13 baking dish with nonstick spray.

-          In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook pasta about 2 minutes less than the package directions call for; drain well.

-          Heat a large skillet over medium high heat. Add the bacon and cook until brown and crispy, about 6-8 minutes. Reserve 1 tablespoon of bacon drippings.  Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate; set aside.

-          Heat olive oil and bacon drippings in a medium pot over medium low heat. Add the shallot; season with a pinch of salt, freshly ground pepper, and chile flakes.  Cook until it has softened and is translucent (about 4-5 minutes).  Add garlic and cook for one minute.

-          Whisk in the flour until lightly browned, about 1-2 minutes. Gradually whisk in the chicken broth and cook, whisking constantly, until incorporated, about 1-2 minutes. Stir in the milk and nutmeg and, while whisking, bring to a simmer. Add the spinach and artichokes, and stir until the sauce has thickened and the vegetables are heated through, about 2-3 minutes; season with salt and pepper, to taste. Stir in 1 cup Monterey jack and 1 cup Parmesan until smooth, about 1-2 minutes.

-          Stir in the penne and bacon.  Turn on a low flame if necessary to get all of the ingredients heated through.

-          Spread the penne mixture into the prepared baking dish. Sprinkle with remaining pepper jack and Parmesan.

-          Place into oven and broil for 3-4 minutes, or until golden brown.  Serve immediately.


Sunday, March 10, 2013


When I was kid, New Year’s Eve meant three things: a slew of movies from Blockbuster, Best Kosher cocktail hot dogs wrapped in cresent dough (a company that has since gone out of business), and my mom’s spinach cheese pie.  Spinach cheese pie is, in reality, the Greek speciality Spanikopita (a mixture of spinach and feta cheese wrapped in flaky layers of phyllo dough), but that’s not what we called it in my house.  Also, traditionally, Spanikopita is wrapped in individual pieces and ours was always prepared more like a casserole, with spinach-feta filling, and a phyllo dough floor and ceiling.  The filling is simple: sautéed onions, dill, parsely, eggs, tons of frozen spinach, and an entire pound of feta cheese (if you’re not a huge fan of feta, you could cut it down a bit; of course, I did not do this). 
I have no idea what made me think of Spanikopita last week, but on Wednesday morning at work, I found myself emailing my mom, requesting the recipe.  She sent it to me almost immediately because she wasn’t working that day due to inclement weather in Detroit.  I read it and it seemed simple enough; however, I should have known better considering we only ate it once a year.  After compiling this recipe last Sunday, I can tell you from experience, it is indeed simple, but time consuming.  The nice thing about Sundays is that you have the time to stand over your sink, squeezing the water out of handful after handful of frozen spinach, as the sensation of the cold radiates up the nerve running behind your forearm, up to your elbow.  I’ll admit that part was not my favorite, but I did thoroughly enjoy brushing sheet after sheet of phyllo dough with melted butter.  Any recipe that requires the use of a brush has inherent merit because that is such a satisfying act; when your medium is melted butter, this undoubtedly earns the recipe bonus points.  Not only is that a satisfying process, but it results in a creation with a golden, crinkled top, kind of like an ancient scroll of sorts, but instead of being old, it tastes great. Thus, if you have a couple of hours on your hands, definitely make this recipe.
Spinach Cheese Pie

4 pkgs. frozen chopped spinach – thawed and squeezed of extra water
1 onion – finely chopped
¼ cup olive oil
1 lb. feta cheese (may want to rinse brine to decrease salt)
4 eggs, slightly beaten
1 ½ tsp dried dill
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
½ lb. phyllo pastry leaves
½ cup butter, melted

-       Saute onion in oil for 5 minutes, add spinach and simmer to remove excel moisture.
-       Crumble cheese and mix in eggs, dill, and parsley.  Combine with spinach mixture until blended.
-       Line an oiled 11x14x2” pan (or a 13x9x2”pan) with 8 buttered sheets of phyllo.
-       Pour in spinach cheese mixture and spread evenly.
-       Top with 8-10 buttered sheets.  Bake at 350 degree oven for about 45 minutes or until golden brown. 

Wednesday, February 20, 2013

Lasagne in Bianco

I stumbled across this recipe while flipping through a stack of food magazines at Barnes and Noble, and I felt like it might be a personalized message from the universe for me to make this recipe.  It is deceptively simple lasagna with just two principle components layered together: a simple, but thoughtgully flavored Parmesan cheese sauce and “no-boil” lasagna noodles.  The sauce is a basic roux-based béchamel sauce, flavored with shallots, nutmeg, dry Marsala wine, and Parmesan cheese. 
I followed the recipe and went for the real deal, authentic Parmegiano Reggiano.  Parmesan cheese is the star of this recipe, and nothing but the finest would do.  After all, Parmegiano Reggiano is called “the king of cheese” for a reason.  The sauce is also amplified by the addition of eggs, which allows the otherwise dense lasagna to puff up a little.  The resulting product resembles a cross between lasagna, macaroni and cheese, and a savory soufflé.  I just barely adjusted this recipe (I toned the butter a touch and amped up the cheese a little.  A half-cup of cheese in the sauce would simply not do).  After I put the lasagna together, I was a little bit nervous.  It looked like a few dinky lasagna noodles swimming in a huge puddle of sauce.  The noodles floated in the middle of the pan, not even reaching the sides.  I proceeded to bake it anyway; about an hour later, it emerged from the oven, puffed, golden, and fragrant.  The noodles had expanded to the full size of the pan, and had lost any hint of a dinky quality.  And on top of its impressive physique, it was so delicious, with the fully bodied flavor of the Parmesan perfectly balanced by the sultry sharpness of the Marsala wine.  Leftover only improved in flavor, either cold or reheated.

Lasagne in Bianco (from

            3/4 cup minced shallots (about 6)
            6 tablespoons unsalted butter
            1/3 cup all-purpose flour
            1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg
            3 3/4 cups whole milk
            1 cup rich chicken stock or reduced-sodium chicken broth
            2 large eggs, lightly beaten
            1/2 cup dry Marsala
            1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
            1 1/2 cups Parmigiano-Reggiano, divided
            12 (7- by 3-inch) Barilla no-boil egg lasagne sheets

Preheat oven to 350°F with rack in middle.

Cook shallots in butter in a heavy medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 4 minutes. Add flour and cook over low heat, stirring with a wooden spoon, 3 minutes. Add nutmeg, then slowly whisk in milk and stock.

Bring to a boil, whisking, then simmer, stirring occasionally, just until sauce lightly coats back of spoon, about 1 minute. Remove from heat and cool to warm, stirring occasionally. Stir in eggs, Marsala, sea salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, and 3/4 cup cheese.

Spread about 1 1/4 cups sauce over bottom of an 11- by 8-inch baking dish. Cover with a layer of 3 lasagne sheets. Repeat layering 3 more times, then top with remaining sauce and remaining 1/2 cup cheese. Bake, uncovered, until browned, 45 to 55 minutes.